The method

  1. 01

    Pick and chop the meat.

    Pull every useful piece from the bones, discard the gristle, and chop the meat into taco-sized pieces. It will usually look like more food once it is gathered together.

  2. 02

    Taste before seasoning.

    The ribs already carry salt, smoke, sauce, or rub. Add only enough taco-style seasoning to point the meat in a new direction without burying the first dinner.

  3. 03

    Warm it gently.

    Put the meat in a cast-iron skillet over moderate heat. Add a little oil only if the pan is dry. If the meat needs moisture, add a small splash of water or stock.

  4. 04

    Cover briefly.

    Loosely cover the pan just long enough for the meat to heat through. You are warming cooked meat, not cooking it a second time. Uncover and toss once before serving.

  5. 05

    Let everyone build dinner.

    Put out the tortillas and shells with cheese, slaw, salsa, and anything else already in the refrigerator. The useful recipe is the method; the toppings can belong to the people eating it.

What I learned

Do not make the meat prove itself twice.

The ribs were already cooked and seasoned. High heat and a long reheat would only make them drier. Moderate heat, a little trapped steam, and a short stay in the pan were enough. The goal was not to recreate the ribs. It was to make the next dinner feel like it had been planned.